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Crazy beautiful |
Today's Miles:
20.50
Trip Miles:
242.90
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The twenty mile push |
Sometimes what seems to be a good idea isn't good in reality. 17 miles
would get us out of Great Smokey National Park and back to the freedom
of camping in multiple areas instead of being forced into the shelters.
At 20 miles was a campsite listed as having a good water source so, Duck
Tape, Mike, Natalie and I went for it.
Most of the hike was a series
of long winding downhill switchbacks. Normally a downhill is a nice
break after a tough climb out of the innumerable gaps in the southern
Appalachians, but they hold their own perils. They put a lot of pressure
on your knees and feet. Mile after mile of pounding with a thirty pound
backpack inevitably leads to some kind of damage. For me it was
blisters on both heels. I thought maybe I was immune to this most common
of hiker maladies, but even after stopping early to treat the issue
with mole skin and duct tape the blisters ripened like tomatoes through
the day.
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Ahhh! |
I wasn't the only one afflicted; both Natalie and Duck
Tape have been suffering with blisters all hike long, but the constant
downhill pounding today seemed to make things worse. We actually were
looking forward to the few climbs we had to make.
We took an hour
and a half lunch at Cosby Knob Shelter, where we soaked our feet in a
creek and rested. We still had about 10 miles to go and the day had
heated up to the 80's. We headed for Standing Bear Farm, a resupply and
hostel just outside of the GSNP and about two miles from our campsite.
We needed alcohol for the stove and some snacks.
At 17 miles we
left the park and followed a cascading stream that fed the Pigeon River.
There were some nice looking sites we could have camped at, but we were
determined to do the 20 miles.
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Our birthday pic for Sarah |
We crossed I 40 and had a mile
climb to Standing Bear. A lot of people like this little hostel and
recommend it, but I wasn't that impressed by it. It reminded me of the
communes I had seen in the early seventies; none of which thrilled me.
They were friendly enough and the resupply was on the honor system, take
what you need and put the cash in an envelope. Maybe I was just tired,
but I followed my instincts, got what we needed and left. Duck Tape hung
out for a bit to talk with Growler who was staying there and to have a
beer.
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Duck Tape on high |
The last two miles were the worst. I had begged for uphills
to spare my heels and now I got them. 1500' in two miles. I whined my
way along behind M and N regretting the decision to do 20. I thought
Mike might have to call the whambalance to carry my sorry butt the last
few feet.
When we finally got to the spring just before the
campsite, we met Luke and Taylor, two thrus we've met off and on over
the course of our hike. We all filled up on water at one of the best
creeks we've seen on the hike, and with a few minutes rest things didn't
seem so bad. Amazing how H2O and knowing you're done hiking for the day
can change your mood.
The sites were nice and flat and we set up
as the sun settled behind the mountains. Got a fire going
and we all sat
around eating and talking. Duck Tape came in just as the darkness took
over. He was glad for the fire to lead him in and we were glad to see
him. He had carried a beer for me up from the hostel; that's friendship! Bye for now.
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Duck Tape,Mike, Natalie, and Taylor |
P.S.
I forgot to mention it was a particularly epic day for Natalie. She had
four, count em, four falls (none serious). The last one was a beautiful
glissade down a slick rock creekside that gained her a score of 10
from each of the judges. Well done Natalie!
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Dwarf Crested Iris (Iris cristata) |
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Fire Pink (Silene virginica) |
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Flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) |
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Views along the way |
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Views along the way |
Wow! That's all I have to say. Mike and I hung together throughout this day and all for falls. The third one being a full fledged fall complete with a somersault...I got stuck on my back sprawled all the way across the trail. Ground -4 Me - 0. Felt pretty good all day and Mike and I were excited to be able to do 20 miles. The hostel was the creepiest yet! Glad we didn't stay there. Tried to powerhouse up the last 2 miles...turns out 20 miles is really hard. I was super dizzy at the end and felt that I had not an ounce left of energy...worried about tomorrow.
ReplyDeleteTrail notes: Day 32: fell 4 times...went 20+ miles. Felt dizzy the end. Creepy hostel.